![]() ![]() Right now, we think the top choice for most drivers is the Nextbase 622GW, which records stable 4K footage whenever you’re on the road. So, whether you're looking for a cheap car camera or a modern front-and-rear setup, we can help you find the best dash cam for your need. We've spent hundreds of hours testing these security cameras for your car, ranking them in this regularly updated guide. The Prime Day deals are still running - see what's still hot to buy.Another reason for installing a dash cam in your vehicle could be the offer of lower insurance premiums, potentially helping to bring down the rising cost of driving. And, any footage it takes can then be used as invaluable evidence if you're involved in or see an incident or accident while on the road. If so, you’ll need a drill, and some guts.Much like an action camera, dash cams can record your drives and even when your vehicle is parked, using integrated sensors to detect if an incident occurs. You may need to make a hole somewhere to get the camera wires into your trunk. Always cover your wire connections to keep them secure, clean, and away from other wires. Electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing.Most cameras and displays come with enough connectors to install everything, but if you need to cut a wire or redo a connection, having a variety pack of connectors can save you from a mid-project trip to the hardware store. Use plastic tools near anything delicate. ![]() Removing little trim pieces with a screwdriver or metal blade can mar plastic or scratch paint. Flathead and Phillips-head screwdrivers-you’ll come across something that needs to be popped out or unscrewed somewhere along the way.A simple set for under $30 should do the trick. At minimum, you’ll need to disconnect the negative terminal on your battery, and you may need to loosen a taillight or other part. A basic socket-wrench set or open-end wrench set.If not, get some that can easily strip the ends of smaller, 24- and 26-gauge wire, too. Small-gauge wire strippers 22-gauge will do, if you have them.About two to four hours of free time, and a bit of moxie.Most DIYers shouldn’t bother with flush-mount cameras-they’re best left to professional installers. In some situations, such as on a truck’s tailgate, this kind of camera can be the best solution, but it requires drilling a visible hole into your vehicle, and it leaves no margin of error in determining the vertical angle of the camera: If the surface you drill into leaves the camera pointing too high or low, you’re stuck with it. Flush-mount installations: You insert this type into a car-body part, such as a bumper or a trunk lid.Depending on the model, you attach a center mount with simple clips, adhesive strips, or more-permanent screws. License-plate center mounts: Almost as easy to install as frame replacements, these designs position the camera on a tiny, tilting neck that attaches behind the top of your license plate. ![]() The camera is embedded into a frame that you screw into the same holes as your license plate the frame goes across the top of the plate or all the way around, like a normal license-plate frame.
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